Thursday 23 May 2013

Baron Boutique - season 16 Frock Coat

A couple of months ago in my costume reviews I looked at the Magnoli season 16 Frock Coat - now it’s time to see how Baron has handled their own version of this season 16 classic.
Baron Boutique are based in Nepal, and have been selling a wide variety of garments since 1998, of which their replica film and tv costumes are only a part.

Fourth Frock Coat
Price as of May 2013 - $479

Obviously this is a coat that I have become very familiar with over the past few months, so I do know my way around it a bit better than most. So I apologise now if I’m a little bit more critical than usual.

The first impression of the coat, as with any garment, is the choice of fabric. The website states the fabric is a super 110s wool, which is more appropriate for making a suit or formal trousers rather than a overcoat.

The screen-worn coat is made form a Harris Tweed, so is much, much heavier and has a coarse weave. So to use a standard wool will not give the fell and drape of the original.

That said, they have cut the coat in such a way that it drapes and flares reasonably well, though not in the same was a heavier tweed would.

The lapels are a fair size, though could be a little bigger as could the collar.
The roll-line of the lapels is a fraction too high, so the ratio of lapel to level of the waistline is too top-heavy.

The size and position of the buttons holes aren’t too bad, though the lower six should have a keyhole.

Like the Magnoli coat, the trim on this version is bias binding which is a finely woven cotton tape as opposed to a more open weave wool braid.

The pockets are a little off, with the flaps being too square. The lower pockets are definitely too small.
The button placement is not so bad, though I feel it is too far apart at the top.
Although this is not a coat with a practical double-breasted front, it should feel and look as though it might actually work.

The back is the major letdown on this coat.

As a frock coat it has been cut to an American style, which has the waistline seam running all the way around the coat, whereas it should stop at the placement of the back buttons.

The placement of these back buttons is too far apart, and thus the princess seams above run in the wrong place too.

All in all this is the better of the options for understand what a frock coat is, though some of the pattern cutting lets it down.

The feel of the coat is of a lightweight blazer jacket, but knee length.

The main failing is the choice of fabric, which is totally wrong.

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